1939 GRIM Days

In 1939 Americans again established their camps on the foot of K2 this time Fritz Wiessner leading the expedition who is actually German he born in Dresden he immigrate to USA in 1929 and gets a citizenship in 1935. He was a great man and too much expert in climbing, he starts climbing at the age of 12 with his father who was also good climber. After clearing weather they started the earlier camps were established on the same previous points from 1-7 at the maximum height of 7,710 meters. From 7^th camp the next steps on K2 was first human steps of that height. While Wiessner and Pasang Kikuli move further and setup 9^th camp at 7,940 meters high during this one member Wolfe remain back in case of emergency.  After that Wiessner and passing decide to try the summit they reached at 8,380 they climb on rocks which was extremely risky. From summit they start descending although Wiessner is willing to move further he suppose that weather is clear they can easily climb on moon light while passing is not ready to put his life on risk.

During descending they face a problem Pasang’s crampon stuck with a rob and fell down they lose the chance of reaching at 8,000 meters of summit and they become first who ever have steps on it. Next day they started back with one crampon on Pasang’s foot they have tried different routes and after many difficulties they had back.

They have no more food to eat and have to continue without it finally they reached at camp 7 where Wolfe welcomed them he told that no one came up  to supply food. Wiessner and Pasang Kikuli left wolfe again at camp 7 and move to camp 6 where they found abundant supplements. They have some rest and go down for plan another expedition with batter ideas.

Wiessner and Pasang were totally exhausted and suffering from frostbite, once again they put all members in team and ordered to reach at camp 7. Wolfe got apathetic attack and not getting well he promised that he should descend next morning. Hardly they reached at camp 6 and took stay for one night. Next day Pasang and other again climbed up one Tsering left who have given target to manage Wolfe descending or get written message that all are free from his responsibility. During this a strong storm come rage over the K2 which was deadly.

On August 2 only Tsering came back alone and told that no one is survived. Wiessner try his best to rescue them but he pushed back and waits on camp 2 after 2 days storm end but no human life would find on K2. Wolfe, Pasang kikuli, Pasang kitar, and Pintso rest forever on K2. The second American expedition was ended with deadly results after that Wiessner faces criticism from UK and USA he cannot defend himself from them although Pasang kikuli was great Sherpas.

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World 2nd Highest Peak

While you reading the article you can further read about actual happening during first success of climbing K2 in 1954. Lino Lacedelli finally expose the truth about Bonatti’s vision their conspiracy and lie he said that Bonatti never got permission to climb alone and if he got he should succeed solo that is his believe he suppose that he have magical feat as no one have………..

1856 Discovery and name of King of mountains:

A British colonel “Montgomery” discovers Karakorum mountain peaks in 1856 during surveying on that area. He discovers K1, K….K7 in which “K” stands for Karakorum but now all K’s are dissolve into different names only K2 remain same which is the 2^nd highest peak in the world. They discover that the height of the peak is 8,611 meters which is toughest to climb.

1902 The first try:

In 1902 an English man Eckenstein leads group of six climbers all were from Europe headed for K2. They started before monsoon as they started their journey from 3^rd largest glacier in the world called Baltoro the length of this glacier is 7 kilometers. They start climbing from Northeast Ridge although they suppose to start from the south over the Southeast Ridge at beginning but northeast is probably easier. Unfortunately they attempt only 6,600 meters due to unrealistic goals, they didn't realized their limits and never estimated the difficulties in such a height mountain.

1909 The Duke:

After 7 years the Duke makes his attempt beside the scientific research he also has plans for alpine operation. Lot of amazing and unbelievable photos was taken by legendary Vittorio Sellatook which gives energy rest of the climbers. They attempts from the southern Ridge however they are not well trained caused failure but due to their attempt, later on that part named Duke. Before them from the north a group attempt and reached 6,600 meters where a giant gorge blocked their way. Duke able to reached at recorded height till 1922 which was 7,500 meters.

1909 No progress:

When Italian celebrate 20 years anniversary in Karakorum the nephew of Duke Abruzzi try to attempt but they realized that they have to focus on slow but scientific method on Karakorum region. The scientific expedition leader was Professor Ardito Desio they return after taking some results the credit goes to Professor Ardito Desio.

1938 The Americans:

The next expedition leads in 1938 which is organized by American Alpine group led by Charles Houston, who had already experienced of expedition in Nanda Devi. He engaged well trained and experienced team and they are hopeful to succeed this time. They reached in June at the foot of Karakorum on 1^st July they established camp and wait for clearing weather. After 16 days they reached at the height of 7,740 meters they face difficulties in lower portion and successfully cross all giant gorge they establish last camp on the altitude of 7,530 meters. On July 21, Houston and Petzholdt took last try to find another campsite on higher altitude they push themselves at 7,925 meters the sky was clear and sunshine what to do next go up or turn back? After long discussion they decide to turn back as health condition of most of them were not good.

The further attempt of

1939

1953

1954

Will discuss on next post. 

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