While you reading the article you can further read about
actual happening during first success of climbing K2 in 1954. Lino Lacedelli
finally expose the truth about Bonatti’s vision their conspiracy and lie he
said that Bonatti never got permission to climb alone and if he got he should
succeed solo that is his believe he suppose that he have magical feat as no one
have………..
1856 Discovery
and name of King of mountains:
A British colonel “Montgomery” discovers Karakorum mountain
peaks in 1856 during surveying on that area. He discovers K1, K….K7 in which “K”
stands for Karakorum but now all K’s are dissolve into different names only K2
remain same which is the 2nd highest peak in the world. They discover
that the height of the peak is 8,611 meters which is toughest to climb.
1902 The
first try:
In 1902 an English man Eckenstein leads group of six climbers
all were from Europe headed for K2. They started before monsoon as they started
their journey from 3rd largest glacier in the world called Baltoro
the length of this glacier is 7 kilometers. They start climbing from Northeast
Ridge although they suppose to start from the south over the Southeast Ridge at
beginning but northeast is probably easier. Unfortunately they attempt only
6,600 meters due to unrealistic goals, they didn't realized their limits and
never estimated the difficulties in such a height mountain.
1909 The
Duke:
After 7 years the Duke makes his attempt beside the
scientific research he also has plans for alpine operation. Lot of amazing and unbelievable
photos was taken by legendary Vittorio Sellatook which gives energy rest of the
climbers. They attempts from the southern Ridge however they are not well
trained caused failure but due to their attempt, later on that part named Duke.
Before them from the north a group attempt and reached 6,600 meters where a
giant gorge blocked their way. Duke able to reached at recorded height till
1922 which was 7,500 meters.
1909 No
progress:
When Italian celebrate 20 years anniversary in Karakorum the
nephew of Duke Abruzzi try to attempt but they realized that they have to focus
on slow but scientific method on Karakorum region. The scientific expedition leader
was Professor Ardito Desio they return after taking some results the credit
goes to Professor Ardito Desio.
1938 The
Americans:
The next expedition leads in 1938 which is organized by
American Alpine group led by Charles Houston, who had already experienced of expedition
in Nanda Devi. He engaged well trained and experienced team and they are
hopeful to succeed this time. They reached in June at the foot of Karakorum on
1st July they established camp and wait for clearing weather. After
16 days they reached at the height of 7,740 meters they face difficulties in
lower portion and successfully cross all giant gorge they establish last camp
on the altitude of 7,530 meters. On July 21, Houston and Petzholdt took last
try to find another campsite on higher altitude they push themselves at 7,925
meters the sky was clear and sunshine what to do next go up or turn back? After
long discussion they decide to turn back as health condition of most of them
were not good.
The further attempt of
1939
1953
1954
Will
discuss on next post.
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